On the heels of an inspiring trip to London (UK) for my DipWSET graduation ceremony, I am reflecting on why this historic city is often referred to as the centre of the world’s wine trade.
So how does a country relatively new to wine production come to have its capital city emerge as the centre of the world wine trade?
Someone who should know the answer to that is Jancis Robinson, one of the most renowned wine critics and writers in the world. She says, “Nowhere is better than London for the opportunities it offers to taste and learn about wine.”
My historian hubby quips, “The English have always suffered from officiousness; they make themselves in charge of everything.” But he quickly supports his satirical remark with historical data.
As a brief background, the 13th and 14th centuries saw tremendous growth in commercial activity and the rise of the merchant class. England traded wool for exotic goods including spices, wine, food, furs, fine cloth (notably silk), glass, jewellery and many other luxury goods. Even prior to that time, the city of London already housed French wine merchants providing the aristocracy with their much beloved claret from Bordeaux. Between 1650-1785, Bordeaux’s wine exports increased by at least 1500%, with most of the trade intended for England.
Starting in the 1600s, England went to war with the Dutch (then the world’s leading maritime and mercantile power) in an intense struggle over control of trade and commerce. The Dutch invented gin but the English organized, expanded and elevated the gin industry.
The same competition occured in the 18th century between England and France. Due to these Anglo-French wars, England turned to importing wine from Portugal and by 1750, Portuguese wines comprised over 70 percent of all English wine imports.
Today, with just under 9 million inhabitants, London is home to 241 specialist indie wine shops. Some of the classic and better known merchants such as Davy’s Wine Merchants (est. 1870), Justerini & Brooks (est. 1749), Corney & Barrow (est. 1780), Fortnum & Mason (est. 1707) and Berry Bros. & Rudd (est. 1698) have a combined business experience of nearly 1,300 years.
Since I was staying in Covent Garden, I got a chance to frequent a wine merchant/wine bar there, The Wine Place, where I enjoyed a charcuterie platter, a glass of English traditional method sparkling wine (Gusbourne) and a glass of Sicilian Catarratto. They specialize mostly in Italian wines.
London’s indie wine shops tend to specialize in specific wine regions, which is helpful to neophytes as the world of wine with its thousands of grape varieties, production methods, sustainable/organic/biodynamic/regenerative farming, and wine speak can be very intimidating.
These smaller, specialized retailers can provide wine education and a tasting experience that Ontario’s big monopole (LCBO) generally can’t. The LCBO has made an attempt to mimic that model with destination and flagship stores.
The English are quite proud of the growth and quality of their sparkling wine industry – and rightly so; the English are quite fond of bubbly wines in general. With climate warming, English wine producing regions are also making some interesting still wines. My colleague at VineRoutes Magazine, Leah Spooner, recently wrote an article about that.
Who better to guide a wine lover through tasting, dining with wine, and buying wine in London than Jancis Robinson. I found her guide very useful.
In addition to being a centre for wine trade, London is also regarded as a centre of finance, insurance, transport, media, theatre and higher education among others.
I found it to be a vibrant city, full of young people and tourists busily walking, biking, scootering to and fro. Comfortable walking shoes are a must as even when using public transit; one will clock many kilometers.
Things to see and do are plenty with most museums being free to the public.
If you are a gardener, numerous neighbourhood parks offer a feast for the senses with beautiful beds of flowers, schrubs and trees (8 million of them, covering 21% of the city area).
My time in London was short and jam-packed. It certainly begs for a return visit!
Because I now write wine reviews, I need to go beyond describing the texture of wine as “smooth”. So I took a deeper dive into what texture in wine is really about.
First, the Basics
The vast majority of wine descriptions focus on aromas and flavours from primary fruit (grape variety), plus secondary and tertiary characteristics such as winemaking and ageing.
Most wine reviews also relate acidity and/or tannin levels; some mention body, balance, complexity, and length of finish.
Far fewer wine reviews spend time dealing with the texture of wine.
I think texture is important to the enjoyment of wine. It is about how the wine feels in your mouth, its weight, its viscosity, its density. Texture gives wine dimension and adds complexity.
It was the velvety texture of a certain wine tasted long ago that captivated me and set me on this wine focused path.
Perhaps the easiest entry point to understanding the texture in wine is to start with food.
I think most people would agree that the texture of brie cheese is creamy while the texture of aged Parmigiano is crumbly. Carbonated drinks are fizzy while tap water is flat. Whole fat milk is full while skim milk is thin.
Sometimes textures are what people do or don’t like about foods. My hubby likes crunchy veggies in a stir-fry, while I dislike the spongy density of raw fish or sushi. Liver, anyone? Let’s not even go there.
Of course these likes and dislikes are subjective. However, they contribute to our individual sensory programming and impact our perception of texture, whether it be in food or wine.
What Contributes to Texture
From what I’ve read, texture is related to the balance of alcohol, sugar, tannins, acidity and phenolics of a wine – all of which contribute to its mouthfeel.
High alcohol wines (14.5%) tend to be perceived as fuller, heavier even oilier (e.g., Monastrell/Mourvèdre) while low alcohol wines (11%) feel lighter, thinner (e.g., Vinho Verde). Alcohol affects the viscosity of a wine. Glycerol, another type of alcohol produced during primary fermentation (aside from ethanol) has an impact on mouthfeel and the perceived weight of the wine.
Sugar balances the acidity in wine; it is also what yeasts convert into alcohol. All wine will contain some left-over sugar after fermentation is completed (called residual sugar). Even bone dry wines may contain between 0.2-5 g/L of residual sugar. But wines that have higher left-over sugar such as off-dry, medium dry, medium sweet or sweet wines will have a more viscous texture. This is visible when swirling a glass of wine and the wine oozes down the interior of the glass in tears, legs, or sheets.
Photo credit Jim Fischer, Flickr
Tannins in red and orange wines are often credited as giving structure; but when it concerns texture, tannins contribute astringency which is felt as a prickly sensation in the mouth, often a furry coating of the tongue and the inside of cheeks.
There are several acids in wine that affect texture; the ones most often noted are malic acid and lactic acid (the latter, a result of malolactic conversion that often happens naturally post primary fermentation). Malic acid gives a sharp and crisp texture while lactic acid is round and creamy.
The phenolic content of wine refers to the phenolic compounds – natural phenol and polyphenols – which also include several hundred chemical compounds – that affect the taste, colour and mouthfeel of wine. It’s the most scientific and least understood topic in wine appreciation so I will be brief here … but if you feel so inclined and are a wine nerd, check out Dr. Jamie Goode’s post on phenolics.
One of the phenol groups, Flavan-3-ols, seems to impart different sensory characteristics based on whether it’s found in the seeds of the grape or the skin of the grape. Coming from the former, catechin gallate is described as hard, coarse and drying on the palate while coming from the latter, gallocatechins are described as velvety and viscous. Wine made using whole bunch fermentation would have the effects of both types of Flavan-3-ols.
Winemaking and Vessels Affect Texture
What a winemaker does in shaping the profile of a wine often impacts texture. For example, the choice of fermentation vessels and their size and shape significantly influence the texture of wine. Winemakers can choose oak barrels or casks for fermentation and ageing (which softens tannins through slow micro-oxidation), stainless steel tanks with temperature control (for crisp acidity and freshness), clay amphora and concrete tanks or eggs (for depth and richness).
Other winemaking processes that affect a wine’s texture are: malolactic conversion (resulting in creamier, softer texture); ageing on lees (adding unctuousness, mouth volume) and lees stirring (adding richness); fining and filtering (to reduce astrigency and soften tannins, and to remove chewy solids/particles left over from the must, for example). In addition, high dry extract (another wine nerd topic) of certain grape varieties (augmented by winemaking practices such as the addition of enzymes) will affect texture in wine. The higher the dry extract, the fuller or heavier the wine (DE normal range is 15-30 g/L).
It’s Just a Metaphor
All descriptors for wine are metaphors. It’s a way to define aromas, flavours, quality of acidity and tannin, as well as texture in wine in an understandable and associative way.
One of the more unique ways of describing texture that I’ve come across is the association to fabric or textiles. Allison Slute, DipWSET, author of CabFranc Chronicles does this and I thought it was brilliant. She equates the mouthfeel of a wine with the likes of cashmere, linen, satin, or corduroy. That for me is a great way to “feel” the texture of the wine.
Here are two examples of wines with noticeable texture. Both are from Wending Home Estate Vineyards & Winery (Creek Shores sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula), made by winemaker Ron Giesbrecht.
This barrel fermented 2020 chardonnay from the estate vineyard is a great example of how texture is created by the deft hand of the winemaker. Ripe fruit from an exceptional vintage was fermented in French oak (small % new), with bâtonnage (stirring of the lees/dead yeasts cells and bits of grape solids) to extract aroma, flavour and texture. The wine also went through malolactic conversion which softened the acids, making it more buttery/creamy. The alcohol is 13.8% providing weight and fullness. Texture: It’s a full wine, satiny, viscous, with a generous mid palate.
Aromas & Flavours: yellow apple, tangerine, grilled pineapple, lemon custard and a hint of brioche, some mineral notes (crushed gravel) and wood spice.Refreshingacidityand a long finish.
The syrah fruit comes from the Wismer-Parke vineyard in Twenty Mile Bench sub-appellation. It was left to hang late into the harvest season acquiring ripeness and phenolic development – both of which contribute to texture in this wine. Then during the winemaking process, it received extended skin contact (maceration) resulting in richness. Fermentation and ageing took place in French oak barriques (to soften the tannins). No fining and only a “5 micron” filter was used before bottling (to catch the bigger grape solids). It was bottled after 2 years on lees (adding opulence). The alcohol is high but well integrated (14.8%), adding to the viscocity and fullness of the wine. Texture: It’s a round, weighty wine, velour-like and grippy (due to tannic astringency) at the same time.
Aromas & Falvours: black cherry and cassis, dark chocolate, India ink, vanilla, and pepper spice. Lovely streak of acidity to keep the palate fresh. Tannic grip on the long finish.
Here is another recommendation from Peter Rod, Program Coordinator/Professor ~ Wine Programs at Niagara College, for a wine that provides a great example of texture: Katogi Averoff Inima 2018 ($20.25 LCBO), Xinomavro from Naoussa, Greece. Tasting notes from several sources depict the texture as …
fine, sandy, drying tannins and juicy acids
firm and sapid, very dry and dusty
grippy & drying tannins that add weight & structure to palate
Well, there you have a summary of my deep dive into wine texture. Do you have any example of wines that speak of texture to your palate? If so, please share by leaving a comment.
Thank you for reading.
Cheers!
(Disclosure: Both Ron Giesbrecht and Peter Rod were my teachers at Niagara College; both inspirational and even now indispensable.)
Having manyirons in the fire sometimes holds up the frequency of my posts. While I wait for my ideas to materialize as written articles, I thought I’d try reporting what others have written that I found interesting.
So here goes … what’s new in the world of wine.
First non-alcoholic Blanc de Blancs
London’s luxury department stores, Harrod’s, will carry Bloom La Cuvée 2022 as of April 15. It’s the world’s first non-alcoholic premium sparkling wine, clocking in at £109. After the one-month exclusive contract with Harrod’s expires, Bloom La Cuvée 2022 will be available in other countries (for €109 in Europe and $119 in the U.S.A.)
The Bloom brand was founded by Rodolphe Frèrejean-Taittinger, a member of the Taittinger Champagne family, and his wife Maggie Frèrejean-Taittinger. Although FrenchBloom is not a Taittinger company product, Rodolphe’s experience in Champagne and Cognac (Maison Coutanseaux Aîné) provided the know-how for the appropriate base wine that would be suited to dealcoholisation.
Made with organically grown Chardonnay grapes from Languedoc, harvested two weeks early to guarantee high acidity, the base wine was matured for six months in new French barriques. After additional acidification, the alcohol was removed in three stages using low-temperature vacuum distillation. Maggie Frèrejean-Taittinger explains that without alcohol the wine is not stable enough for longer storage; but it still has the complex flavour of a mature vintage champagne. A total of 17,000 bottles were produced. (Original source: Harpers)
French Bloom has two other non-alcohol sparkling wines, Le Blanc and Le Rosé, available in Ontario (Canada) @treamiciwines.
Rooftop Vineyard
The new terminal at Amerigo Vespucci International Airport in Florence will have an eight-hectare vineyard on the roof! Thirty-eight rows of vines are to be planted on the pitched roof while the harvested grapes will be processed in the cellars to be constructed below. Phase one of the contruction is set to begin 2026 with completion scheduled for 2035.
New York architecture firm Rafael Viñoly designed this futuristic project aiming to combine “green roof” innovation with Tuscan winemaking traditions. The infrastructure must pay special attention to weight distribution, the drainage system and wind load resistance. As the microclimate on the roof differs significantly from that of a conventional vineyard, there are also challenges in terms of heat regulation. (Original Source: Gambero Rosso)
Happy 60th Birthday, Screwcap!
In 1964, Amcor Capsules (headquartered in Zurich, Switzerland) introduced its Stelvin closures specifically for the Chasselas grape variety which was very susceptible to cork defects. The goal was to preserve the freshness, flavours and quality of the wine in a better way.
Thus the aluminium screw cap for wine bottles was born. At the time it was considered revolutionary and there were few adopters. Then along came New Zealand with its Sauvignon Blanc boom in the early 2000s and the screwcap became the standard wine closure by producers there. In New Zealand and Australia, nine out of ten wines are under screwcap. The technology is now used in 40 wine-producing countries. (Original Source: Drinksbusiness)
Correction from wine enthusiast/journalist Dan Traucki: Actually Australian Winemakers were the first to adopt screwcaps. Yalumba Wines trialled it in 1969-1972 on their Riesling and then in 2000 The Clare Valley winemakers – fed up with tainted corks decided to ALL put their Riesling under screwcap, New Zealand Sav Blanc winemakers followed on from the Clare valley mob – and the rest, as they say is History.
Remake of Judgement of Paris … but now in London
A tasting called Judgement of London will take place on May 20 at the London Wine Fair. The event pays homage to the Judgement of Paris (1976), in which wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy were judged blind against Californian wines (which were hardly known at the time), and to everyone’s surprise the Californians won.
The Judgement of London will include a wide selection of iconic wines from Europe and around the world, compiled according to grape variety, style and texture (with an optimum drinking window of 5-15 years). The wines will be tasted in pairs by 20 judges under test conditions. Eight pairs of white wines will be tasted in the morning (one from Europe and one from the rest of the world) and eight pairs of red wines in the afternoon. The wines will be rated on a scale of 1-10, with half points allowed.
One of the judges will be Jancis Robinson MW, who describes the event as “a fitting tribute to Steven Spurrier”. Sarah Abbott MW acknowledges the wine industry has moved away from terminology of Old World vs New World, however Steven Spurrier’s claim that great wine comes from all over the world “is as relevant now as it was almost 50 years ago when this iconoclastic tasting took place.” (Original source: Harpers.co.uk)
Alsace Planting Syrah and Grenache
Renowned biodynamic winemaker Jean-Michel Deiss (Domaine Marcel Deiss) claims that the climate in Alsace is getting closer to that of Châteauneuf-du-Pape! Therefore, he is planting Syrah, Grenache, Terret, Counoise and Cinsault this spring and is also thinking about planting Mourvèdre. In an effort to mitigate and adapt to climate change while preserving the domaine’s identity, Deiss has chosen grape varieties to suit the warm microclimate of the Schloessleberg site near Rouffach with its Mediterranean vegetation and limestone soils. He laments that Pinot Noir has reached its limits there.
Deiss is planting one hectare of Syrah and Grenache mixed with Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir – an old practice known as complantation – the art of mixing grape varieties in a terroir that are harvested at the same time and vinified together. In Austria and Germany, such wines are known as Gemischter Satz. This is also emphasizes terroir over grape variety. Deiss explains that the diversity strengthens the immunity of the vines and provides insurance against climatic extremes such as frost, as the flowering times are different. (Original Source: La Revue du Vin de France)
Let me kow if you like this concept of reporting wine news … it could become a regular addition to my blog.
Cheers!
P.s. To see what I’m tasting and discovering in the world of wine, follow me on Instagram
Instead of my usual musings, I would like to share the work of the Porto Protocol members and their latest video.
One of Niagara’s wineries is featured, Icellars, and Canadian Michelle Boufard (founder of Tasting Climate Change) is a Porto Protocol member.
The Porto Protocol is a global movement sharing practical knowledge to empower the wine industry to take action in mitigating climate change and to promote sustainability. Currently there are more than 250 members, spread across 5 continents, 20 countries, and includes the entire wine value chain.
Through collaboration and innovation, members seek to trigger action and create a community of changemakers who are committed to making a positive impact on the planet.
This video is inspiring!
While the information for some might be new, for many it offers hope and opportunities to collaborate with peers to make effective changes in their vineyard/winery practices.
This blog is going to be technical, scientific and for some … a bit ho-hum. But I am a nerd when it comes to science-backed, wine-related material, so here goes.
There are exciting developments in the vineyard that will impact your wine.
What is Old is New Again
Have you ever wondered how to start or expand a vineyard? Where does the planting material (vines and rootstocks) come from? In order to propagate a vineyard, you have two choices: clonal or massal selection.
Clonal selection is how most vineyards plant or replant today. This method, popularized in the 1960’s and 1970’s, involves taking cuttings from “mother vines”. These parent vines are selected because they stand out in the vineyard; they produce good yields and offer other desired characteristics. The cuttings are essentially identical to the parent vine. Once propagated (rooted and grown in a nursery), they are registered as clones and given a number, for example Pinot Noir Cl 115 or Pinot Noir Cl 777. Clones are then exported and sold worldwide (though propagation can also take place at domestic or local nurseries).
Problems arose in the past when parent vines carried undetected viruses that were consequently spread to all major wine growing regions through the import of propagated cuttings. That has now been controlled to some extent by technology developed at UC Davis to heat treat imported vine cuttings in order to “clean” them. Detecting diseased cuttings is the first step and labs such as the one at CCOVI Brock University (Niagara/Canada) offers a virus testing service. The most important control of grape viruses is the use of clean plant material for propagation.
Another issue with clonal selection is too much homogeneity – with growers and wineries using the same clones in most wine growing regions of the world – resulting in wines that have become too similar.
Thus, winemakers eager to showcase the uniqueness and individuality of their wines have been returning to massal selection, the “old way” of propagating vineyards. It has regained favour because it also offers significant potential for high quality wine.
Given enough time, vines in a vineyard mutate and cross with one another (e.g., Cabernet Sauvignon, a cross between Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc) creating genetically diverse material. This genetic diversity has the benefit of reducing diseases and handling climate change better while also reflecting a more authentic terroir.
Massal selection is the practice of taking cuttings from exceptional old vines from the same (or nearby) vineyard. It involves careful selection and propagation from a diverse group of healthy, high-quality, and genetically distinct parent plants. A new vineyard planted with these cuttings will be similar in character to the old one, though hopefully superior with respect to the selected attributes (e.g., disease resistance, flavour complexity, or suitability to the terroir).
Did you know? The following producers all make use of massal selection for their vineyards: Champagne House Louis Roederer, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (Bourgogne), Clos des Papes & Château Rayas (Châteauneuf-du-Pape), and Ridge Vineyards (California) … to name a few.
What is New is Really New
New genetic engineering (NGT) such as the Crispr/Cas9 (or gene scissors) is coming to the world of wine.
The promise of new genetic engineering methods could help to develop more climate and pest-resistant vines that require fewer pesticides and fertilisers.
The wine world is now one step closer due to the recent vote by the EU Environment Committee allowing two different categories of genetically modified plants, including grape varieties. NGT-1 category can now to be treated in the same way as conventionally bred plants (controlled clonal selection) in terms of risk assessment and authorisation (thus exempt from the strict requirements of the Genetic Engineering Ordinance, GMO). Plants and vines in the NGT-2 category would continue to be subject to the requirements of GMO legislation, including mandatory labelling of products.
A prerequisite for NGT-1 is that no foreign genes are inserted into new grape varieties and that a defined number of genetic modifications is not exceeded. The EU Environment Committee also stipulated that all NGT-1 vines should remain prohibited for organic production at this time (requiring further research).
Professor Dr Kai Voss-Fels, Head of Vine Breeding at Hochschule Geisenheim University, has been using NGT or gene editing with various grape varieties. Currently all results are based on laboratory work as field trials have not yet been allowed.
Unlike genetic modifications of the past where genes from other organisms are used to “implant” desired characteristics, NGT can target specific traits in order to enhance or switch them off by directly modifying the genetic material of the vine. Dr. Kai Voss-Fels can cut portions of vine DNA and remove it or move it elsewhere. Moreover, vine characteristics such as loose berries or lower must weight with a lower alcohol yield can be promoted without having to wait for a random natural mutation to occur or cross breeding for the desired characteristics. Those can take a very long time to achieve. According to Dr. Kai Voss-Fels, NGT only accelerates classic mutation breeding.
Some Italian wine regions have come on board with PIWI hybrid grapes.
These grape varieties were created through several stages of controlled crossing and contain a high percentage of Vitis vinifera with just enough disease-resistant American Vitis to give good resistance to fungal diseases.
Italian winegrowers recently founded the national association PIWI Italia (February 2024), based at the Edmund Mach Foundation in San Michele all’Adige (Trentino). More than 250 Italian producers now belong to it. Italy has authorised resistant varieties only at the regional level. There are currently 36 resistant varieties registered in the national grape variety register. PIWI varieties have been planted in Veneto, Trentino, South Tyrol, Lombardy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Piedmont, Emilia Romagna, Marche, Abruzzo, Lazio and Campania.
This year at the ProWein trade show in Düsseldorf (March 10-12, 2024), the German Wine Institute (DWI) will be showcasing wines made from PIWI grape varieties. A total of 20 white, red and rosé wines will be available for tasting with the motto of Grapes For the Future. According to DWI interest in and acceptance of innovative grape varieties is increasing. Germany is a leader in breeding these varieties.
Photo Credit Marc Hurstelpharnate, Weingut Wohlgemuth-Schnürr
Final Thoughts
Well, there you go … something old is being revived, something new is being tried.
How that will impact wine in the coming years is still to be seen. But the effects of disease and climate change in vineyards around the globe are an on-going concern to grape growers and winemakers. Consequently, they are seriously looking at methods such as massal selection and propagating ancient varieties that have coped with many climate changes, as well as new technologies.
How open are you to wine made with new varieties and new technologies?
Wine is a celebratory beverage. It has been thus for thousands of years. During this span of time, many customs and wine traditions developed – often curious and always festive.
In honour of this divine elixir, let’s journey through the calendar year looking at wine traditions in several regions of the world.
Winter
Perhaps the best starting point is in Ancient Greece where a wine deity, Dionysus, was celebrated and whose festivals commemorating grapes and wine were held in wintertime when the vineyards lay dormant. Somehow, a women’s harvest festival, Haloa, also shifted to late December/early January. Festival rituals were often conducted by women following the fermentation of the harvested grapes and of course wine tasting … lots of it. This also corresponded to pruning of the vines.
Did you know the female followers of Dionysus were called Maenads? Check out my article for GlassofBubbly about the Maenad Wine Co.
Men were prohibited from Maenads’ festivities, where much wine imbibbing and dancing took place. Little wonder!
At festive parties around Christmas time in Germany, it is not uncommon for the host to set wine on fire. It involves putting a rum-drenched cone of sugar into a large batch of hot wine and then setting it alight. A spectacular way to make mulled wine, don’t you think?
Down Under in Australia and New Zealand, Christmas time falls at the peak of their summer heat, so revellers need to cool off and what better way than with a wine popsicle made from one of their crisp, fruity white wines!
There is a charming New Year’s Eve tradition in Spain. As the clock chimes midnight, a grape is eaten for every chime; thus, one eats 12 grapes followed by a glass of Cava.
In Chile on New Year’s Eve, one drinks a glass of bubbly “carefully” because a gold ring has been dropped into the wine. This is one of Chile’s good luck traditions (cábalas) wherein the gold ring symbolises prosperity.
Canada’s Niagara Region delights in winter wine festivals – Niagara Benchlands Winter WineFest and the Icewine Festival – are cheery ways to pass the long cold winter while the newly fermented wines are sleeping. One tradition at the first festival is barrel rolling. Winemakers (both male and female) compete by rolling a 228-litre empty wooden wine barrel (end over end) down a street, around another barrel, and then back to the starting line. The top three winemakers with the fastest times have a “roll off” and the one with the fastest time wins the coveted Golden Blunnies trophy (in honour of the kind of boots most winemakers wear, Blundstone).
Late Winter/Spring
Wine has continued to hold a significant place in religious celebrations, so even today there is the tradition of blessing of the vines.
Across central France (and most of Central Europe and some regions of Eastern Europe), the old Celtic tradition called Wassailing still takes place in early January. The ritual sees farmers/grapegrowers and villagers celebrating with music, dancing – and lots of wine – in order to encourage the vines to bear a good harvest. In some parts of France, they present the oldest or largest vines with special offerings.
Similarly in Croatia, Vincekovo is an important winegrowers tradition celebrated on January 22. Saint Vinko (martyred under Roman Emperor Diocletian) is the patron saint of winegrowers and his memorial day is celebrated in vineyards throughout continental Croatia (versus regions along the Adriatic coast) for the beginning of a new wine-growing year. Winegrowers pray to Saint Vinko (St. Vincent) for a good harvest and seek protection of their vineyard from winter, frost, rain, hail, disease, pests and any other harm. One of the most curious traditions includes hanging smoked sausages, bacon and pork ribs on the vines. Old wine is poured on the vines to “wake them up” and then they are pruned.
St. Vincent Vineyard Celebration
In Bulgaria on February 1 the festival of Trifon Zarezan is held. It is one of the oldest customs in the Bulgarian folk calendar celebrating the change from winter to spring and associated with the pruning of the vineyard. Unlike the ancient Greek Maenads, here women are not allowed to enter the vineyard; instead they prepare the ritual food taken into the vineyard by the men. St. Trifon (martyred under Roman Emperor Trajan) is a Christian transformation of the old gods (e.g., Dionysus) so this Bulgarian wine festival continues an old agricultural tradition.
Summer
On June 29 in Haro (Rioja wine region), Spain, an epic wine-soaked battle takes place. The whole town (and visitors) all dressed in white throw red wine at each other. It’s part of the Haro Wine Festival and the celebration of the Feast of Saints Peter and Paul. After everyone is drenched and thoroughly “red”, people gather together for an evening of traditional dancing.
In Italy, for a week in mid to late August, another barrel race takes place. In Montepulciano (Tuscany), Italy, Bravìo delle Botti is the culmination of a week long festival. It consists of rolling barrels (weighing 80 kg each) along an uphill slope and through the historical town center. Two pushers (spingitori), representing each of the 8 wine districts, compete racing to finish in front of the Cathedral (located in the main square). This challenge originated in 1373 when it was a horse race in honor of San Giovanni Decollato, patron saint of Montepulciano, celebrated on August 29th. The modern barrel race replaced the horse race for the safety of all – thank goodness!
Autumn
In Slovenia, November 11 or Martinovo (St. Martin’s Day) marks the end of the wine harvest – so this is a festival dedicated to new wine. It was believed that St. Martin was able to turn water into wine – therefore the must (or freshly crushed grape juice, including the skins, seeds and stems) is blessed by a bishop … and only then does it officially become wine. Wonder if the actual winemakers have a different perspective?
Anytime ~ Wedding Wine Customs
A Nigerian custom requires a newly-wed bride to offer her new husband a cup of palm wine. The ceremony is called Igbankwu, or wine carrying. The bride’s father pours the cup and gives it to his daughter. She must then find her husband hidden among the wedding guests whose job is to make this as difficult as possible (but in the nicest of ways). After she has found her husband and presented him with the wine they are then considered married.
A quirky Ukrainian wedding custom has guests attempting to steal the bride’s shoe. The successful thief can make demands of the wedding party. It often involves drinking from the bride’s shoe – either champagne or vodka. But no need to worry, alcohol kills germs; however, the poor bride is left with a wet shoe.
If you know of anymore interesting and curious wine customs, please leave a comment.
My grandfather was a carpenter and he knew how much thought, skill and time went into an artisinal product. So, he always said “don’t bicker about the price being asked.”
But lately, I have been asking why so many of my local wineries are asking premium and super premium prices?
I will assume that it’s not just greed. So let’s delve into possible reasons behind price increases.
Some Necessary Background:
For the purpose of this post, I am working from the premise of the following wine price bands.
Value – under $12
Popular – $12-20
Premium – $20-35
Super premium – $35-50
Luxury – $50+
1. One possible reason for the rise of wine prices is the fact that small and medium sized Ontario wineries are having real trouble making ends meet. Right now, there are several established Ontario wineries for sale. Although new ones are popping up, they are charging between $25-55 for a bottle of wine.
What is causing fiscal woes for small and mid-sized wineries? During the pandemic, winery tasting rooms were shut down, and there were and still are supply chain issues. As well, the cost of materials post COVID-19 is higher (e.g., glass bottles – up 20%, dramatic increase to cost of labels, printing, closures – cork and aluminum twist tops/capsules). Moreover, winery retail sales are down by over 6% from 2022. So, to stay afloat, some are passing on the costs to consumers. In their defence, what has not gone up in price since the pandemic – cauliflower, anyone?
Interesting Facts: In the province of Ontario there are 192 registered wineries in the VQA Program. Five (5) are considered large class wineries (sales over 750,000 L). Twenty-one (21) are medium class wineries (sales between 100,000-750,000 L). One hundred and sixty-six (166) are small class wineries (sales less than 100,000 L).
Just to make matters worse, the federal government has raised its alcohol excise tax by 2% for 2023 and another increase of 4.7% is coming in 2024. Taxes already account for 65% of the price of wine. However, Ontario wineries recently received some good news: the provincial government is dropping the hated 6.1% on wine sales at winery retail stores. Will that decrease wine prices? Probably not. (There are other major changes to alcohol sales coming into effect 2026.)
Not only have I noticed an increase to the price of wine, the cost of tasting wines at Niagara wineries has risen. The pandemic inaugurated pre-booking online (although most still welcome walk-ins) and tasting fees between $15-40 for a flight. There is even a “new kid” on the block charging $100 for a tasting … it’s billed as an “experience”.
2. Another factor impacting higher wine prices is climate change. Wine regions globally have been experiencing droughts, cold damage, severe storms, fires, and flooding – creating scarcity. And scarcity drives prices up. Local examples include the 2022 vintage where parts of Ontario’s Niagara Peninsula lost 50-90% of their fruit due to a very wet 2021 fall coupled with severe winter freeze events. British Columbia also suffered a severe winter cold event (in 2022) which dropped temperatures to -27 C , killing fruiting buds and resulting in a 39-56% drop in wine and grape production for the 2023 vintage. Likewise, Nova Scotia experienced a polar vortex in early February (2023) with bud-damaging cold temperature of -25 C. I tracked severe weather impacts in wine regions globally in an earlier blog if you are interested in reading more.
Paradoxically, an oversupply of wine … mostly in Europe … drives prices up as well. EU member countries have wine regulations controlling production volumes and pricing (at least strategies that prevent prices from collapsing). Because costs of making wine are higher and demand/consumption has fallen, producers cannot turn a profit. That is why some EU countries are mandating distillation for surplus wine and grubbing up hectares of vineyards.
3. Wine consuption is down … everywhere. In Canada, according to IWSR drinks market analysis , the number of regular wine drinkers has steadily declined since 2017 and sales volumes of still wine have showed no growth over the past five years. Even in traditional wine countries wine consumption has fallen: Portugal (-34%), France (-15%), Spain (-10%), and Italy (-7%).
Younger people (of legal drinking age) are showing a preference for craft beer, ciders, hard seltzers, and spirits over wine. Gen Z (19-24) made up 9% of all wine drinkers in 2017 but by 2022 that figure had fallen to just 5%. Again according to IWSR drinks market analysis, Generation Z see the attraction of wine – more than any other group they think it is fashionable and makes them seem sophisticated – but they find it both expensive and complicated, and buy it significantly less often than any other age cohort. 40% of them drink it only 1-3 times a month.
Moreover, health and wellness concerns among all age groups is having an impact on alcohol consumption. New drinking guidelines, Dry January, creative mocktails, and a greater availability of de-alcoholized beer and wine have made in-roads. Not surprisingly, there is a growing trend, with Gen Z in particular, for organic or raw/natural wines.
Interestingly, there is growth in the premium wine price band, as Canadians are buying less but better. The LCBO and Wine Growers Ontario acknowledge the biggest growth in wine sales is at the higher end.
What should premium or super-premium wine mean? Well, it should be special and handled differently (more labour intensive) from vineyard to bottle. That could mean – best quality fruit from a reknowned single vineyard, hand-harvested, whole cluster pressed, longer ageing, best quality oak barrels or more trendy cement or amphora vessels – are all factors, as is the skill of the winemaker.
Some Ontario wineries declared themselves premium & super-premium wine producers from the get go and continue to live up to that reputation. Others have jumped onto that bandwagon with one or more wines in their portfolios. Not a few have ventured into the luxury price band. Will Ontario wine consumers pay those prices for local wines? Time will tell and we’ll see what the market will bear.
Wine consumers with very deep pockets also regard wine as an investment and a status symbol. Prices of luxury wines on Liv-ex and in other secondary markets continue to rise (led by Burgundy and Champagne). But there may be some uncertainty about the markets’ future direction. Thus, when Ontario wineries produce wines at $100+, they are appealing to a limited number of buyers, but they are also competing with more established wine regions of the world.
So while I may complain about the rising prices of local wine, I understand the constraints that producers are under. However, will I choose a $60 Ontario Merlot or a Grand Cru Classé Saint-Émilion at the same price point?
I would love to hear your thoughts on the subject, please leave a comment.
That’s a complex and contested question. But there is something special about the relationship between limestone and grape growing.
There are claims that wine produced from grapes grown in limestone soils have lively acidity that is not overpowering but well integrated, a freshness or brightness, ageability, and a minerality that is expressed in both flavour and texture of the wine.
Hence, we need to understand what limestone is and how it affects the growing of grapevines and the end product … wine!
Limestone is a general term for many kinds of sedimentary rock – like Travertine marble, chalk, marl, karst, tufa, dolomite, and even coral reefs. Most caves in the world are found in limestone bedrock. This is because limestone weathers and dissolves. Rainwater picks up carbon dioxide from the surrounding air and forms a weak acid (carbonic acid). Then as this acid penetrates through the soil or flows along cracks in limestone formations, it begins to dissolve the stone.
In its purest form, limestone is calcium carbonate. A term often seen in vineyard soil descriptions is calcareous meaning “mostly or partly composed of calcium carbonate”, in other words, containing lime or being chalky. Soils with significant quantities of calcium carbonate are alkaline, meaning that the pH is 7 or more. These soils tend to be coarse, stony, and very well drained. They are usually white (e.g., albariza soil in Sherry region of Jerez), gray (e.g., Kimmeridgian or calcareous clay in the Loire Valley, Champagne and Bourgogne) or beige in colour. They formed a long time ago when water receded from ancient seabeds and an array of shells, coral and other debris accumulated to form calcified sediments. This eventually hardened into rock (limestone) and when the earth’s internal forces pushed the ancient seabed upwards it became land … and ultimately vineyards.
Did you know? The Eurasian continent has an abundance of limestone … much more than the Americas. Therefore Vitis vinifera – the European grapevine – was at home in this type of soil.
When it comes to vineyards, there are benefits and challenges with limestone soils. On the plus side, limestone soils retain moisture in dry weather, releasing it slowly to the vine roots when it is needed, but also offer good drainage in cool, wet weather.
On the negative side, limestone soils can cause iron deficiency in grapes or chlorosis (where the leaves turn yellow and photosynthesis is affected). As well, the high pH of limestone soils decreases availability of nitrogen and phosphorus and makes it harder to get micronutrients like iron, manganese, copper and zinc into the vines. To prevent this from happening, grape growers must fertilize more frequently. Finally, limestone (and clayey) soils seem particularly attractive to phylloxera (as the late 1800s infestation and destruction of vineyards all over Europe proves) – so own-rooted vines in limestone soils are at a big disadvantage.
Fun fact: Limestone has additional benefits in wine production. Caves in limestone bedrock offer ideal conditions for storing and maturing wine. Famous limestone wine caves are found below Reims (Champagne), St-Émilion (Bordeaux), and parts of the Loire Valley. A recent article by Alex Maltman (emeritus professor of Earth sciences at Aberystwyth University, in Wales, UK, and the author of Vineyards, Rocks and Soils: A Wine Lover’s Guide to Geology, Oxford, 2018) points out caves in Spain’s Penedès, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero and the extensive ancient cellars below Chateau Ksara in Lebanon. He also describes limestone tunnels in Moldova at Mileștii Mici, which stretch for 240km/150 miles, and states that at nearby Cricova, you can drive your car along the 60 miles (100km) of limestone tunnels, bearing names such as Cabernet Street, Muscat Street, and Aligoté Street.
Despite the challenges, limestone soils are sought after in all wine producing regions. Here are some of the more noteworthy:
France – Champagne – The outcrops of sedimentary rock in this region are 75% limestone, composed of chalk, marl and limestone proper. Chalk draws in water through capillary action, thus naturally regulating the vine’s water consumption and achieving the balance of ripeness, acidity and berry aroma potential.
France – Chablis – Two major types of soil are found here – Kimmeridgian marl, a mix of clay, limestone, and ancient marine fossils like oyster shells, forming a crumbly mix that drains well while retaining just enough water; and Portlandian limestone – more limestone and less clay; it’s a younger soil, harder, with fewer marine fossils, generally making lighter wines with a little less minerality and a little more emphasis on fruit and floral aromas.
France – Bourgogne – Meursault – This wine appellation produces only white wines (Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc); the subsoils consist of clay, limestone, and sand while topsoils are loess and schist (which provide minerals like iron, manganese, and magnesium). Meursault Chardonnays are full-bodied, rich and round with aromas/flavours that include butter, almond, hazelnut, honey, and citrus fruits.
France – Bordeaux – Saint-Émilion – A variety of soil types are found here (silty clay, very often calcareous, gravel and/or sand) with a limestone plateau around the town of Saint-Émilion itself. The soil and subsoil, as well as site, sun exposure, water and nitrogen supply influence the early maturity of the vines and the level of ripeness of the grapes (thus affecting colour, aromas and flavours).
France – Loire Valley – Along the length of the Loire Valley there is a range of soils and subsoils, but starting at Saumur there is tuffeau (chalk, producing wines that are fresh, elegant, balanced); going east into Touraine, soils are calcareous clay on the slopes and light gravel on the banks of the river (producing wines that are light, crisp, aromatic); continuing east to the Centre-Loire, soils become Kimmeridgian limestone, flint and gravel (producing wines that are lively and fruity, combining minerality with citrus aromas) – noted for Sancerre wines (grown on limestone white soils/terres blanches and Pouilly-Fumé (grown on Kimmeridgian limestone/caillottes/marl/Portlandian limestone, and clayey flint).
France – Jura – Soils are mostly marl and limestone (producing wines with lively acidity, tension, and minerality).
France – Southern Côtes du Rhône – The region has a variety of soil types – clay, rocky, limestone and sand. Dentelles de Montmirail vineyards have the most limestone – e.g., Gigondas – producing wines that are light, aromatic, supple, floral, fruity and with edgy minerality.
England – The three major wine growing regions – Sussex, Kent and Surrey – all have soils similar to Champagne, mainly chalky limestone soils. So it’s no wonder England is producing some of the finest sparkling wines today. Wines from grapes grown in this soil have finesse – delicate and elegant characteristics- as well as balanced acidity and concentrated fruit flavour.
Spain – Jerez – Most of the vineyards of this region are planted on a “white” soil called albariza (between 30-80% chalk; the rest is a mix of limestone, clay and sand). Besides the high moisture retaining power of this soil type, the upper levels of soil bake hard under the heat of the summer, creating an impermeable crust and preventing evaporation; the white colour reflects sunlight back to the vine aiding photosynthesis; also, albariza soil is rather loose and easy to work, which helps the the distribution of the root system – roots up to twelve metres in length have been found at depths of up to six metres in albariza soil.
Italy – Tuscany – A range of soils are found in this diverse region, from marl-like clay-limestone and dense sandstone in the Apennine foothills to sandy clay around San Gimignano and gravelly clay and sandy soils in the Bolgheri and Maremma areas according to Jen Laskey (WSET-certified advanced somm and Diploma candidate). So, it is harder to equate soil impact on how the wine tastes. But generally, you will find galestro (a friable marl of layered limestone and sandstone) throughout the Chianti Classico and Montalcino regions, as well as alberese (compact clay and limestone) mainly found in the south central Chianti zone and calcareous tufa in southern Chianti. Can one assume Sangiovese loves these soils?
Italy – Sardinia – Again here, there is a range of soil types from volcanic and granitic to calcareous-sandy and calcareous-clay. Vermentino di Sardegna thrives on calcareous-sandy and granitic soils while Cannonau (Grenache) grows in calcareous-clayey and volcanic soils.
Italy – Veneto – Hilly regions like Colli Berici have limestone and marl subsoil covered by a top layer of red clay (producing well-structured, medium-tannin red wines with notes of spice, ripe berries and cocoa).
California – Paso Robles – This AVA has a predominance of calcareous soils with high pH values of 7.4 to 8.6 which is not typical of California’s other viticultural areas. The area’s heritage variety is Zinfandel but some high quality Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grow on sloped vineyards in Linne Calodo/calcareous soils.
South Africa – Robertson Valley – Known as The Valley of Wine and Roses, this region has a wide selection of soil types from gravelly, lime-rich, alluvial soils, to red, clay loam and Karoo soils resulting in rich, fruit-driven red and white wines made most often from Chardonnay and Shiraz grape varieties. Throughout the region are pockets of limestone soils where Chardonnay grapes thrive, giving these wines a chalky minerality.
Argentina – The presence of limestone in the soils of Mendoza is very frequent and is often concentrated in a stratum known as calcrete or caliche that presents in a whitish or pale pink colour. According to Martin Kaiser, viticulturalist at Doña Paula, the effect of calcaire on the aromatic profile is difficult to generalize, but it can be said that in cool regions of Argentina it diminishes the presence of herbaceous notes, and enhances the aromas of black fruit jams and spices. In warmer climates, its effect would not be so noticeable, but in any case they seem to increase the concentration of tannins and the color of the wines.
New Zealand- Despite a lack of actual limestone in Central Otago, there is accumulation of lime in the semi-arid soils that is the same in profile (chemically calcium carbonate) and alkalinity or high pH as actual marine origin limestone. Similarly to Mendoza, this is pedogenic lime which simply means “soil created”. The region is known for fine Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines.
Canada – Niagara Escarpment – Sloped vineyards on the Niagara Escarpment have variable soils from clay and silt to rich calcareous clay loam. Most of this area’s soils are deep and moderately drained with good water-holding capacities producing wines with freshness and minerality. The upper layer of bedrock on the escarpment is dolomitic limestone (aka dolostone). Wines coming from “the Bench”, as escarpment vineyards are known, offer refreshing acidity, bright fruit and minerality.
Niagara Escarpment & River
The Challenge – Two Ontario Chardonnays
Far be it from me not to accept a challenge (even when it is self-imposed)! I wanted to see if I could taste the difference between two wines of the same grape variety, from the same vintage, produced in the same way from the same winemaker … but from different terroir (soils).
As previously mentioned, slopey Niagara Escarpment vineyards have limestone bedrock while the flatter vineyards near the lake and river are a mixture of clay/loam/ sand/silt. The first wine, from the Wismer Foxcroft vineyard “nord parcel”, was made with grapes grown on predominantly magnesium-oxide and dolomitic limestone soils. The second, from the Bai Xu vineyard, has fruit grown on a mixture of sandy and loamy sediments over lacustrine clay (with some silt and limestone).
Both wines went through alcoholic fermentation and malolactic conversion with indigenous yeasts – perhaps some different nuances in the wines come from the fact that each vineyard could have different strains of native wild yeasts. However, the production facility was the same as was the winemaking (e.g., 20 months ageing). The Wismer Foxcroft Chardonnay was aged in new + slightly used (neutral) barrels (Burgundian) and the Bai Xu Chardonnay was aged only in slightly used (neutral) barrels (Burgundian). Both wines are 13.5 % abv with 2.2 g/L and 2.3 g/L of residual sugar respectively. An impactful difference could be that the Bai Xu Chardonnay comes from older vines planted in 1981.
The Big Reveal
There is a difference! The wine coming from higher limestone content has a brightness, sharper edges, salinity/minerality and more easily defined aromas and flavours. It also has a touch more vanilla and ginger spice coming from new oak. The second wine, coming from a more clay based soil, is rounder or richer, more floral, but the flavours are somewhat muted – less identifiable. It also has less oak spice (used/neutral barrels).
For more in-depth tasting notes on these two wines, please see Rick VanSickle’s review. I could not top his take on the wines.
Conclusions
There may be a difference in the wines I tasted based on terroir (which includes soil type), but I cannot unequivocally state that wines produced from limestone soils are better. The romance and joy of wine is to appreciate wines coming from a variety of soils – volcanic, slate, granitic, graywacke, sand etc. – and to understand how these different soils impact wine.
If you would be so kind and if you have not done so already … please follow me on Instagram.
Here are a few thoughts … following on the heels of my last blog, Keeping Opened Wine Fresh … as to what matters when selecting and buying wine.
Perhaps you choose wine according to price, or grape variety, or wine region, or even wine scores (please read Michael Pinkus’ rant on scores). In addition to those considerations, you really should take note of the following.
Storage & Transportation
Most wine consumers already know that wine at home should be kept in a cool environment, away from bright light, and vibration. But have you considered the storage and transportation aspects of your wine store and delivery service?
When selecting bottles at you local wine store, stay away from those displayed in the window, on sunny shelves or on shelves illuminated by store lights. Both UV rays and heat produced by light (sun or otherwise) will damage wine – by breaking down the complex molecules that contribute to a wine’s desirable flavours. I choose bottles that are futher back in darker recesses of shelves. This will also depend on the conscientious efforts of the people stocking shelves – do they rotate bottles regularly?
Moreover, check the condition of the bottle(s) – if sealed by cork, check to see/feel that the cork is flush with the top of the bottle below the foil wrapper. If raised slightly – that may indicate a potential problem with the wine.
Did you know? Maderization is the term used for wine that has been negatively affected by heat (either by high air temperature or exposure to the sun) – effectively cooking the wine. The term stems from the production methods used for Madeira wines which in fact are “cooked & oxidized”. However, though desirable in this style of fortified wine, it is a flaw in regular still wines giving almond, candied fruit and caramelized flavours – as well as darkening the wine’s colour.
Dark coloured wine bottles (green, amber) do help in reducing the effect of UV light, so if purchasing wine in clear or light coloured bottles – know that they are meant for early consumption and not for storing and ageing.
Much wine today gets shipped or delivered to your door through online retailers and delivery services. But have you given thought on how it is handled? Aside from the vibration involved in transport, is your case of wine spending too much time in either a hot or excessively cold truck?
I ordered a case of wine as a Christmas gift from a reputable online wine service to be shipped across the country. En route, it sat overnight or for several nights in the delivery van at freezing temperatures. This resulted in half of the bottles popping their corks and leaking – meaning the wine had to be consumed almost immediately – which was certainly not the intention for the gift. The delivery service did not take responsibility and the retailer only refunded 10%, claiming that freezing wine does not affect its quality (huh?). Consumer beware!
A good idea is to check with the delivery service to see if they keep wine overnight in trucks or unload into temperature controlled warehouses. Of course, distance to end consumer is a determining factor (and I am not even touching importation of wine from other countries via cargo ships etc.). Another reason to buy local?
Vintage Variation & Conditions
While most wineries and winemakers acknowledge that there are vintage variations – growing conditions that impact the quality of wine from year to year – they can usually mediate for that so that the consumer cannot really taste much difference. But it does make for more manipulation of the wine.
So, I pay attention to years and places where smoke taint, sour rot, lady beetle taint, underdeveloped grape phenolics and other weather related impacts on wine (droughts, rain, hail, mildew, botrytis, heat domes) occur and how that may affect quality. For a little more insight, take a look at my post tracking global weather impacts on wine in recent years. Most grape growers’ associations globally put out an annual vintage report which describes both the blessings and challenges.
Residual Sugar
Another focal point (at least for me) in selecting wine is the amount of residual sugar (measured in grams per litre). Yes, from a health perspective consumers should watch their sugar intake when it comes to wine – but it is also a question of palate. Some wine drinkers prefer dry wines, others like a little sweetness in their wines. Interestingly, residual sugar diminishes perceived tannins and acidity in wine while increasing the perception of body.
Did you know? Residual Sugar (RS) in finished wine are sugars that have been left over from fermentation. Yeasts consume grape sugars and turn them into alcohol but are unable to consume all sugars. In a completely dry wine there will still be between 0.5 – 2 grams per litre of residual sugar left. A teaspoon holds 4 grams of sugar. Expert tasters may be able to detect RS at about 4 g/L, while beginner tasters can have a threshold of 10 g/L before detecting the sweetness.
Guide to Sweetness Levels
Still Wines
Champagne & Sparkling Wines
X-Dry/Bone Dry 0-5 g/L
Nature/Zero Dosage 0-3 g/L
Dry 5-10 g/L
Extra Brut 0-6 g/L
Off-Dry. 10-15 g/L
Brut 0-12 g/L (Prosecco begins here)
Medium Dry 15-35 g/L
Extra Sec 12-17 g/L
Medium Sweet 35-45 g/L
Sec 17-32 g/L
Sweet 45+ g/L
Demi Sec 32-50 g/L
(Dessert wines are often 100 – 200+ g/L)
Doux 50+ g/L
Measurements are approximate and may differ in different countries
Champagne & The Disgorgement Dates
This was brought to my attention by a dear friend recently and has to do with labels on wine bottles and transparency. The chart above details the sweetness levels of Champagne wines determined for the most part by dosage – which is cane sugar dissolved in wine added as the final step before corking. But to add this liqueur de dosage to the wine, the bottles have to be disgorged– basically ejecting the lees (deposits of dead yeast cells) that have formed in the course of aging and collected in the neck of the bottle through riddling. The next steps are to freeze the bottleneck, remove the crown cap and eject the frozen plug of yeast cells. That is followed by the addition of dosage and corking.
My friend insisted that knowing when the bottle of champagne is disgorged indicates its lifespan and makes a difference as to when he chooses to drink it. So after a little research, I concur. Here is what I found …
Although disgorgement dates are not a measure of quality of a wine, they do provide insight into its maturity. At disgorgement, a small amount of oxygen enters the bottle and begins to slowly age the wine. Because Champagne wines can be made from multiple vintages it is difficult to determine the age of the bottle, but knowing the disgorgement date provides some insight. According to Didier Gimonnet, of Pierre Gimonnet & Fils, “the date of disgorgement is very important because a bottle will taste very different six months after disgorgement than it will two years after.”
Vintage ChampagneNon Vintage Champagne
Just to complicate things further, there are wines with R.D. on the label. That stands for recently disgorged. R.D. Champagnes have had an extended period of ageing (e.g., R.D. Bollinger 12-14 years) on the lees prior to disgorgement. Delaying the disgorgement just prior to the release retains the wine’s freshness while also delivering autolytic character and complexity. Because these wines have already had lots of ageing, they should be consumed close to the date of disgorgement.
By the way, the EU is bringing in new regulations for all wine labels as of December 2023. This includes nutritional information/calorie count on the physical wine bottle label. Other required information — including full nutrition and ingredients — can be listed electronically with a QR code or other means. Ingredients causing allergies and intolerance are required to be on the physical label as well.
I would love to see more transparency and information on Canadian wine labels. One such item is length of ageing on lees for sparkling wines – as autolytic character like biscuit, bread dough, brioche and roasted hazelnut develop between 18 months – 5 years. That information is hard to find unless you speak with the winemaker.
What information would you like to see on a wine label?
You’ve opened a lovely bottle of wine but cannot finish it in one go. That happens a lot to me … as my hubby drinks beer. So after one or two glasses there is a lot of wine left in the bottle. How do I save it for another day and keep it as fresh as possible?
Enemy #1: Oxygen
Once you pull the cork or break the seal of a screwcap on a bottle of wine, chemical changes start to occur. Oxygen rushes in while sulfur dioxide (added to most wines to prevent oxidation and prevent microbial activity) dissolves into the air. Exposing wine to oxygen triggers chemical reactions such as turning alcohol into acetaldehyde – which smells and tastes like green apples, dry cider, rotting “oxidized” apples … and with a little bacterial help – vinegar!
Look Fors
Most wines, once opened, will last 3-5 days depending on how you store them. These are signs that your opened wine is on the decline and should not be drunk:
Smell: If the wine has lost its fresh, fruity aroma and smells more like cider or rotting apples and in the extreme vinegar, it’s done – ditch it down the sink.
Colour: If your white wine turns darker yellow or amber in colour and your red wine loses colour or develops a brown hue, it’s done – ditch it down the sink.
Taste: If your leftover wine tastes flat, dull or funky, it’s done – ditch it down the sink.
Storing Options
Put the cork back in or scewcap on asap and do it between pours. Sealing the bottle slows the oxidation process.
Store the bottle upright in the refrigerator for all wine (yes, even red wines). Again the cool, dark fridge environment slows down oxidation.
Use a wine vacuum pump (e.g., Vacu Vin) to remove oxygen from the open bottle to preserve it for longer (but some air is still left inside the bottle, so it’s not perfect). These devices come with rubber stoppers and start at $15 CAD from a variety of retailers.
Employing the same concept of wine in a box (plastic bladder), you can pour unfinished wine into PlatyPreserve bags (approx. $15 CAD). These gadgets are lightweight (an alternative to glass bottles), 100% taste-free and food-grade lined. They allow you to press the remaining oxygen out of the cap and tightly seal the wine keeping it fresh for days and even weeks.
Another affordable solution is a gas canister system, such as Private Preserve. You uncork the wine bottle (so there will be some exposure to oxygen) and when you wish to reseal, you simply spray (a mixture of gases – carbon dioxide, nitrogen, and argon) into the bottle to protect the wine from further oxygen exposure (for about $18.00 CAD). Private Preserve claims the wine will last for months and even years.
An obvious choice (and used by my dear friend George, serious wine aficionado and collector), is to pour left-over wine into a smaller bottle sealed with a screwcap. The trick is to fill the bottle right to the top so no room is left for oxygen. Uline sells clear glass and plastic bottles of various sizes (starting at $1.60 CAD each for glass bottles).
A more expensive option is a Coravin system. This brand offers several price options (from $145 – $699 CAD) apparently keeping wine fresh from 4 weeks to years (depending on the system chosen). The technology uses a needle to puncture a hole in the cork to extract wine (without having to pull the cork out and hence avoiding any contact with oxygen). The wine left in the bottle is then topped with argon gas and the cork naturally re-seals as if the bottle had never been opened. There is also an option for screwcap wines that, according to Coravin, can keep your wine fresh for up three months.
Multi bottle wine saver at a Finger Lakes winery keeping wine fresh ~ temperature controlled for a variety of wine styles (Wine Station by NapaTechnology, $5000.00 USD)
Wine Enthusiast has a variety of wine preservation gadgets (some of which have been mentioned above) ranging from $29.95 to over $12,000 USD. For the gadget gal/guy in your household there is a six piece Electric Blue Omega All-In-One Automatic Wine Opener/Preserver (vacuum pump) and Dispenser/Aerator (about $90 USD).
Uses for Left-Over Wine
Remember left over wines can be used in cooking to add richness and complexity to sauces and marinades. What about making wine jelly to enjoy with cheese and crackers? I use sparkling and white wines in risotto. Stews could use some of that left-over wine, too. If you are ambitious, make your own red wine vinegar.Poached pears in red wine is a lovely dessert. You can even freeze left over wine to use later. (These and other recipes can easily be found on the Internet.)
Fun Facts
Wines with higher alcohol content (15.5% +) will stay fresher longer. Therefore, fortified wines like Sherry, Port, and Marsala, which have a high alcohol content, can last 28 days when corked and stored in a cool, dark place. Marsala and Madeira are exceptions to the 28-day rule—these two fortified wines will last for months and even years due to their unique heating and aging process.
Wines with higher acidity will take longer to spoil (as a low pH controls the speed at which oxidation occurs). So a Riesling, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, or a dry Rosé could last 5-7 days (sealed in the fridge) but you may notice the wine’s fruitiness begin to dwindle sooner.
Full-bodied white wines, such as oaked Chardonnay, Muscat, and Viognier, last 3–5 days in the refrigerator when sealed.
Sparkling wines begin to lose their carbonation immediately after opening and last 1–3 days in the refrigerator when sealed with a specialty sparkling wine stopper. Traditional method sparkling wines (Champagne, Cava, Franciacorta etc.) will last slightly longer than Charmat tank method sparkling wines like Prosecco, Moscato, and sparkling red Lambrusco due to being more highly pressurized.
Lighter bodied red wines such as Pinot Noir and Gamay Noir have lower tannin levels and lower alcohol so they won’t last as long (2–3 days when sealed and refrigerated).
Medium bodied reds like Merlot and Cabernet Franc last longer due to higher tannin and alcohol content and keep 3–5 days when sealed and refrigerated.
Full-bodied reds like Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah/Shiraz and Malbec last 4–6 days when sealed and refrigerated. Higher tannin and acidity levels slow the aging/oxidation process.
Question?
Once opened, are organic and no added sulfite wines more fragile (2-3 days)? Sulfites preserve freshness and protect wine from oxidation, and unwanted bacteria and yeasts. So, it’s possible that less sulfites means less protection.
If you drink organic wines or wines with no added sulfites – what is your experience? Leave me a comment.
divinevines 