On the heels of an inspiring trip to London (UK) for my DipWSET graduation ceremony, I am reflecting on why this historic city is often referred to as the centre of the world’s wine trade.
So how does a country relatively new to wine production come to have its capital city emerge as the centre of the world wine trade?
Someone who should know the answer to that is Jancis Robinson, one of the most renowned wine critics and writers in the world. She says, “Nowhere is better than London for the opportunities it offers to taste and learn about wine.”
My historian hubby quips, “The English have always suffered from officiousness; they make themselves in charge of everything.” But he quickly supports his satirical remark with historical data.
As a brief background, the 13th and 14th centuries saw tremendous growth in commercial activity and the rise of the merchant class. England traded wool for exotic goods including spices, wine, food, furs, fine cloth (notably silk), glass, jewellery and many other luxury goods. Even prior to that time, the city of London already housed French wine merchants providing the aristocracy with their much beloved claret from Bordeaux. Between 1650-1785, Bordeaux’s wine exports increased by at least 1500%, with most of the trade intended for England.
Starting in the 1600s, England went to war with the Dutch (then the world’s leading maritime and mercantile power) in an intense struggle over control of trade and commerce. The Dutch invented gin but the English organized, expanded and elevated the gin industry.
The same competition occured in the 18th century between England and France. Due to these Anglo-French wars, England turned to importing wine from Portugal and by 1750, Portuguese wines comprised over 70 percent of all English wine imports.
Today, with just under 9 million inhabitants, London is home to 241 specialist indie wine shops. Some of the classic and better known merchants such as Davy’s Wine Merchants (est. 1870), Justerini & Brooks (est. 1749), Corney & Barrow (est. 1780), Fortnum & Mason (est. 1707) and Berry Bros. & Rudd (est. 1698) have a combined business experience of nearly 1,300 years.
Since I was staying in Covent Garden, I got a chance to frequent a wine merchant/wine bar there, The Wine Place, where I enjoyed a charcuterie platter, a glass of English traditional method sparkling wine (Gusbourne) and a glass of Sicilian Catarratto. They specialize mostly in Italian wines.
London’s indie wine shops tend to specialize in specific wine regions, which is helpful to neophytes as the world of wine with its thousands of grape varieties, production methods, sustainable/organic/biodynamic/regenerative farming, and wine speak can be very intimidating.
These smaller, specialized retailers can provide wine education and a tasting experience that Ontario’s big monopole (LCBO) generally can’t. The LCBO has made an attempt to mimic that model with destination and flagship stores.
The English are quite proud of the growth and quality of their sparkling wine industry – and rightly so; the English are quite fond of bubbly wines in general. With climate warming, English wine producing regions are also making some interesting still wines. My colleague at VineRoutes Magazine, Leah Spooner, recently wrote an article about that.
Who better to guide a wine lover through tasting, dining with wine, and buying wine in London than Jancis Robinson. I found her guide very useful.
In addition to being a centre for wine trade, London is also regarded as a centre of finance, insurance, transport, media, theatre and higher education among others.
I found it to be a vibrant city, full of young people and tourists busily walking, biking, scootering to and fro. Comfortable walking shoes are a must as even when using public transit; one will clock many kilometers.
Things to see and do are plenty with most museums being free to the public.
If you are a gardener, numerous neighbourhood parks offer a feast for the senses with beautiful beds of flowers, schrubs and trees (8 million of them, covering 21% of the city area).
My time in London was short and jam-packed. It certainly begs for a return visit!
As always, thank you for reading.
Cheers!
divinevines 